LIVE MUSIC PHOTOGRAPHY 101
Hi there! I've created this starter guide for live music photography in response to a growing number of folks reaching out about hoping to learn from me. I so appreciate the interest, but I'm generally not able to teach while I'm focused on working a show. This page will hopefully serve as a starting point and a reference guide for people looking to build their photography skills, specifically in live music settings.
In addition to providing this resource, I'm always happy to answer questions, offer feedback, etc. via email. Drop me a note at kenzie@kenzietrezisephotography.com if you have something to ask or want me to take a look at your photos!
WHAT YOU'LL NEED TO GET STARTED
Your Camera Body: This is the camera itself and there are endless options to choose from. If you're purchasing something brand new, I'd strongly suggest a mirrorless body, but you can take great photos on any camera. Better cameras will take better photos, but you absolutely do not need to sink a ton of money into whatever is currently "the best" camera while you're learning. If you already have a body, start learning on that one!
Your Lenses: I use three main lenses in my work: a telephoto lens (70-200mm f/2.8), a wide angle lens (16-35mm f/2.8), and a mid-range lens that I primarily use for very occasional portrait stuff (50mm f/1.8). In live music, a long and fast lens will be your best friend. This is a lens like the 70-200mm f/2.8 - the "70-200mm" piece refers to how far it can zoom and the "f/2.8" piece refers to its widest aperture setting. The smaller the aperture number, the more light that can be let in, which enables you to use a higher shutter speed - making it a "fast" lens. (As a note, I borrowed and rented lenses for a long time until I could afford to buy my own. There are lots of great rental sites you can check out for this - it's also a great way to test lenses before deciding to buy them.)
Your Editing Software: There are a lot of options here, but the most common is Adobe Lightroom. You can get the program on its own or in combination with additional Adobe products. (Most computers these days come with their own basic editing software, too - Lightroom is just the industry standard. Pick what works for you and your budget!)
Your Earplugs: Please don't skip this one! I assume you'll want to be able to hear a few years down the road and live music photo involves frequent exposure to speakers - you'll often be right in front of them for long periods of time. Don't mess with your ears. I personally use plugs from Eargasm and definitely recommend them.
THE "EXPOSURE TRIANGLE"
There are three main settings on a camera that will combine to create your photo: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. These are referred to as the "exposure triangle," as they all work together to create a well-exposed photo. A "Know Before You Go" tip from another pro (my dad!): memorize exactly how to adjust these settings on your camera BEFORE you're working in a dark concert venue. You don't want to learn how it works while you're in the pit!
Aperture: This is the number on your camera that will look like "f/2.8," "f/4," "f/5.6," and so on. The smaller the number, the more light that's let in - but the smaller the number, the smaller your point of focus. I can tell you that when I'm shooting a show, I essentially never change this from f/2.8 (with a handful of exceptions). You get a nice focused subject and a smooth background with as much light as possible, which is really important in low light environments like concerts.
Shutter Speed: This is exactly what it sounds like - the speed at which your shutter closes to take the photo. The higher the number, the faster the shutter closes (and the less light is let in). Not shooting at a high enough shutter speed will result in a blurry photo, which you obviously want to avoid, so be sure to balance this with your aperture setting and ISO! Depending on the show, I generally shoot from anywhere between 1/250 and 1/500. You'll learn your sweet spot as you practice and encounter different lighting scenarios.
ISO: This is the camera's sensitivity setting. The higher you set this, the more sensitive your camera will be to lighting - this means you'll be able to shoot in darker environments, but your photos may also be grainier. When shooting indoor shows, I tend to stick between ISO 1600 and 3200 as much as possible. It's possible to do some denoising in post, but only to a point - so I try to prevent grain all together where I can. (Sometimes you won't have much of a choice about whether or not to go higher and that's okay. I will always prefer grain to an unfocused photo!)
LIVE MUSIC PHOTOGRAPHY
ETIQUETTE
Respect the photography rules: Make sure you're aware of any rules/restrictions on professional photography when you're shooting a show. The most common rule you'll run into is that many bands only want you to be in the very front (or the pit, if there is one) for the first three songs of their set. Some will cut you off there, but oftentimes you'll be allowed to shoot the full show from the rest of the room. Be sure to check with your contact at the venue or the performer about their specific rules and follow them. A related tip: know where else you are and aren't allowed to shoot from inside the venue and get to know those spots a little before the show, if possible. If you're allowed to shoot from a balcony, it helps to know how to get there ahead of time!
Respect the performers: Nobody loves having a camera shoved in their face for 90 minutes straight, so even if you get to shoot the first three songs from the front, try to respect the performers' personal space. This is where a long lens like a 70-200mm will really help you out - you'll get those intimate portraits without being all up in their business. Don't use a flash and don't be a distraction. Once I get through those initial songs, I try to stick to the sides and back of the audience. Outside of the actual shooting, don't ask for special favors or for things like free merch from the venue or performers. I see it happen a lot and it's a presumptuous bummer.
Respect the audience: When I'm working, I always keep in mind that no matter how cool of a moment might be happening on stage, me getting a photo of it is not more important than the audience getting to see that moment with their own eyes. Avoid blocking anyone's view as much as possible and be kind to audience members - in the event that I get to shoot the first three songs from the very front, I try to let folks know I will only be there for a few songs and then I'll be out of their way. People always appreciate that.
EDITING & SHARING
YOUR PHOTOS
Taking the photos is only half the work! Now it's time to edit and share them.
Editing: While setting your exposure in your camera is pretty technical and standard, editing is truly subjective - it is 100% up to you to discover your own editing style. Personally, I tend to underexpose just a little bit in the camera, then increase the overall exposure, bring up shadows, and bring down highlights in post. This is also where you can do things like adjust your white balance (the "temperature" of the photo), increase or decrease clarity, and more. Spend some time going a little crazy with the sliders in Lightroom (or your program of choice) to get familiar with what each one does. Play with presets, too! They're a great learning tool that can really help you decide what feeling you want to evoke in your personal style.
Posting/sharing: Before you prepare to share anything publicly, make sure you don't need to have your shots approved by the venue or performer first (this is rare, but does happen with bigger artists). I always share my photos with whoever gave me the photo pass, which is a good networking practice, and then I drop them in a blog post on my website and share on social media as well.
NETWORKING & FINDING OPPORTUNITIES
Networking is a huge part of finding opportunities for live music photography. Start small and local: does an event or festival in your town need a volunteer photographer? Is your friend's band playing at a bar downtown? Consider reaching out and asking if they might be willing to set you up with a photo pass in exchange for your shots.
Live music photo in particular is a lot of volunteer work on the frontend, but those free (or lower paying) opportunities will help build your portfolio that can eventually land you larger paid jobs. My first exposure to serious live music photo was working as a volunteer photographer at a music festival. I still shoot for that festival many years later, but I also have a paying gig as a house photographer with a venue group in my city and am a frequent photographer for handful of performers because of the portfolio I was able to share from those earlier shoots. Treat everything like a learning experience! Above all, be kind to everyone you encounter in this work - performers and venues remember respectful and qualified photographers, and repeat gigs will happen when you stand out as one of them.
